Would anyone happen to have a stator for an 1977 honda xl 250?

I have a couple for Z1's if they are the same.

Thanks but I think these stators are specific for an xl 250

I know you do not want to hear this, buit a pair or stator coils for a '77 XL250 just sold on Ebay....in Powell River....on Saturday.

I sifted thru my stuff, but no XL stuff.

Do people still have these re-wound ? I had one done many years ago.

Getting very hard to find anyone with that skill any more. I used to do some but don’t even keep a supply of varnished wire around to do this with. Just too hard to obtain then very labour intensive work.  Nobody wants to pay someone to do anything with their hands any more.
Fran
Ps sorry Paul but I don’t have any class stuff any more not for a couple of years now

Maybe these guys could rewind your old one it might be worth a call.

https://rmstator.com/en_ca/

Yeah, they may be some help.  I was going to mention them, but did not see any XL250 parts mentioned on their site.

Saw some options on eBay. You will need the original part number as there seems to be a variety but prices were reasonable it seems mostly out of China but it will get you going ther was a company called Bruce&Shark that quoted in cad and free shipping too
Frank

  Got one from Wolfgang. Looks like Japanese Shindegan from a distance, but it’s China.
  Gonna check with this guy, only deals with new Guaranteed Shindegan, and the latest  Mofset technology’.
 
 https://roadstercycle.com/

I rewound my own once (for a KZ1300).  The local electric motor rebuild shop didn't want to do it, but they gave me the wire for free and even dipped and baked it for me when it was done.  I simply unwound the wire, counting the number of turns, then wound on the new wire.  Aside from being hard on the fingers, it wasn't difficult and worked like a charm.

  I ordered a complete ‘super kit’ which includes new Shindegen with MOSFET  technology, and all hookups for ‘almost’ plug and play. The unit easily deals with 450 watt stator, so my 35 yr old 240 watt unit is an easy game. 

  Picked up the new super MOSFET reg/rec kit today, a day before Canada Border services goes on strike. US Customs guy was super interested in what bike this was for, tried his darndest to say 'Laverda' in his Texas drawl. Asked why I like lining up at long lineups [2 cars] then grinned. Wished me luck with the bike. So glad to have a US shipping address the last 27 yrs, $9 delivery, $3 mailbox fee, no cross border brokerage BS and stupid fees. $172 US for the complete kit, dude at the Cdn Nexus booth smiled and waved "have a great day". Gasoline for the truck at $3.45 us gallon, [$1.26cdn] the best reuben sandwich in the entire pacific northwest in downtown Lynden,,,,,completely empty roads sprinkled with very courteous drivers that actually use their turn signals and stop at stop signs,,,,,,,,,unlike this 3rd word insanity we seem to be fermenting here. I got to start riding down there more again.

   Now I will enter into my weakest technical skill, wiring. 

  The new Shindegen MOSFET reg/rec is a substantial devise size wise. It actually is going to take a bit of thought to install the unit on the Laverda, there isn't alot of space to install it. I'll probably need to make an aluminium plate and hang it from the rear section somewhere. So,,,,as a means to running this machine this season, I took another look at the unit Wolfgang sent me. It does fit in the original location of the previous reg/rec, and the wires do make sense if you are not intimidated by electrical wires like I am. It only took 20 minutes to install it. I fired up the engine with multimeter on the battery, and recorded the voltage of the battery at the below rates, all with headlights on:

 1100 rpm - 12.2 volts
 1500 rpm - 13.6 volts
 2500 rpm - 14.1 volts
 3500 rpm - 13.6 volts

  It's interesting that the reg/rec is allowing input into the battery with a blip high, then regulates down as the rpm goes into /cruising rpm.

 I'll be checking this reglarlyto see that my installation stays connected, and that the devise does not prematurely 'delete' itself.

Steve, I found a piece of alloy to mount your new regulator. 6”x3”x1/4” thick. Will that do, if so I will bring it to coffee next Wednesday.

  Actually, it’s as close to perfect as I can imagine!! And 1/4” thick, truly perfect!!! Thank you!!!

As per Johns request, here's the list I've got:

  Charlie's Place

 Grant Tiller

 Parts n More

As Ross mentioned on another thread Mrs Wheels is having charging problems on her 1981 CB650 Four.   At coffee this week it was mentioned to replace the  regulator/rectifier with it  being the easiest and cheapest possible fix over the stator and rotor.
At the same time i am getting a reading of 5 ohms on the rotor itself which I believe is too high of a reading.  Bike runs fine and only discharges the battery after about an hour of riding with the headlights on.  My understanding is even the bike when new had low readings from the start as the factory did not make a very good unit and could barely maintain its battery from the get go.  I see where we replaced the rotor two years ago here but now thinking that replacement rotor might not have been good from the beginning and it only took a long ride for us to notice the battery becoming dead.

Battery is good so now I believe if correct that it must be one of three things, regulator/rectifier,  stator and rotor.  Plus also checking and cleaning the wiring of the unit.

Any further input is welcome as this is a great bike when running properly.

Thanks for the list Steve and we have been on all four sites and looks like if necessary we can get all three required items and then when they fail to work just leave the garage and go out and have a fit! 

I don't know much about the Honda charging systems but on the Kawasakis the rotor is on the crankshaft.  The stator sits inside the left engine cover and it's wires go into the rectifier.  If Honda's system is the same you would not be measuring the rotor resistance. 

The old bikes generated just enough power to run the lights and that's about it.  Kawasakis run around 45 to 55 volts per phase but at fairly low amps.  I think they are tested at 4,000 rpm but maybe my memory is faulty. I think once converted and supplied to the motorcycle electrics they only provide around 250 watts.  So if you're trying to run anything extra like heated gloves it's probably too much for the charging system.

My thought would be to measure voltage from phase to phase on the stator.  If it meets the spec then you are probably getting all you can get. 

A common issue on older Hondas is the connector where the alternator wiring joins the main wiring harness. The terminals in Honda connectors were made of un-plated copper or brass. Over the years, the terminals become oxidized, which increases the resistance of the connections. This causes the terminals to heat up, further adding to the oxidation, further increasing the resistance ... Eventually, the plastic bodies of the connectors start to melt.

On nearly every bike I've put on the road, I've replaced the original connector with a screw-terminal strip, with a shot of corrosion preventive sealant in each barrel. Still easy to disconnect when removing the engine, but very good at holding off the oxidation.

Thank you for the input everyone.   Will update once cured and on the road.

A bit late to the table on this... 

Your rotor resistance seems a bit high, but before doing anything drastic, try measuring with another meter.  Unless you have a really good meter, the meter's 'error spec' could be as much as a few ohms so when measuring low ohm devices (like the rotors in these bikes), the resulting measurement may be way off.  And, be sure to zero out the ohmmeter before making the measurement, if you can, or if you can't, make a note of the resistance measurement of just the probes and subtract that from your rotor measurement.

The common problem with these rotors is that with high speed spinning, the wires chafe and eventually short out (resistance would measure less than the spec) which reduces the rotor's magnetic field, which in turn reduces the stators AC output.  To compensate, the R/R passes more current into the rotor to try to increase the Rotor's magnetic field.  Eventually the R/R overloads from passing too much current to the shorted rotor and it burns out.  The R/R can be tested but you need two batteries or a variable power-supply (with at least several volts more than 12v available). 

Of course, the rotor can also fail with a broken wire, i.e. 'open circuit', but that easy to diagnose. 

Thanks Dave.   If anything I will take this as a learning curve
Electricity is not my skill and I am surprised mom and dad did not name me Lucas

FYI…Jameson Mc Murray has a nice original 77 XL 350 with original muffler in nice shape and original signal etc for $1500 if anyone is interested.